Friday, September 16, 2011

A Trip to Lusaka (4 hours one way)



Last Sunday afternoon we headed off to Lusaka with Ron and Erma Herr and Emma Muchimba (who is coming to the US with us next month).  The purpose was to get the required Yellow-fever shots.  Along the way we encountered the usual people, bicycles, assorted animals and broken down vehicles on the road, and were reminded of the precarious nature of driving in this environment. 

Pedestrians - including this drunk one who just made it off the road
Cyclists from any direction at any time


Cattle, goats, pigs and chickens - some of them suicidal!





















 
Disabled vehicle partially on the road
Disabled vehicle fully on the road
The driver of this disabled vehicle was careful to place grass on the road - the standard warning
At night the dangers are exponentially higher since each one of these hazards are present 24/7.

Arriving at the MCC guest house in Lusaka, we enjoyed a wonderful barbecue'd chicken dinner prepared by the hosts, Eric and Kathy Fast. 

Monday morning Erma Herr stayed at the guest house while Ron dropped the rest of us off at Ministry of Health on his way to a meeting.  Our timing was great and they opened the office soon after we arrived.  But then came the bad news: they had no “medicine” (vaccine) in spite of the fact that we had someone personally check just on Friday and were assured that there was plenty.  But, they cheerfully informed us, if it was urgent that we get the shots today (which it was), we could go to Lusaka Chemist (pharmacy), buy it ourselves (imagine!!) and bring it back to the office to be administered. 

Emma called a taxi driver whom she knew from a previous visit to Lusaka only to discover that he had since died.  So the guard at the Ministry of Health flagged down another taxi and Gene went for the vaccine while Darlene and Emma stayed at the Ministry of Health. Emma was savvy enough to write down the licence and registration number of the taxi in case any problems would develop. On the way there it occurred to Gene that he’d better purchase some for Ron and Erma since they planned to get their shots later the same day or the next and vaccine still might not be available at the Ministry of Health.  So at the chemist Gene was able to purchase five units packed in ice and headed back to the Ministry of Health by way of the bus station where he purchased the tickets for the 11:30 AM bus to Choma.

The shots went well and we were comfortably finished well before our scheduled pick-up time by the same taxi driver.  So we called him to let him know he could come earlier.  About the time we hung up, a huge election campaign rally with scores of vehicles and lots of noise drove down the Great East Road and I wondered if this might cause complications for our driver since traffic was starting to back up right where we were waiting.  Nevertheless, he pulled up on time and we arrived at the station a few minutes  before the bus left. 

Uneventful return trip on the bus, a long walk from Choma to Nahumba, dinner and bed!
Baobab Tree

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

What a Week


Tuesday morning we were finishing breakfast when Emma came into the house saying that there was water all over the parking area.  This was surprising since Gene had been out earlier working in the garden and hadn’t seen anything like this.  So we went to take a look and water was indeed gushing from a cement clean-out box which is part of the drain system for the sewer and kitchen sinks.  This could only mean that a water line had burst somewhere under ground or under the porch where the lines come into the house. 

To try to find out where the leak was, Gene plugged up the 4” pipe in the clean-out box with plastic bags, braced them in place and watched to see where else water might appear on the surface. Sure enough about 20 minutes later there as a wet spot, then water bubbling out a hole in the ground right above the lid to the septic tank! The leak was somewhere down there.  Water is still pouring out full-tilt but we don’t know about any shut-off valve to turn it off. Nevertheless, Gene starts digging and we stop using any water from the taps or discharging anything from the bathroom or kitchen.  Fortunately we have a good working outhouse! 

Emma informs us that there is a shut-off valve somewhere in the field to the north but only Adam knows where it is.  Adam is out with the cattle right now so we continue digging and the water keeps flowing.  After a while it becomes apparent that the water is flowing out of the septic tank. But how is it getting into the tank?  We keep digging.

After a couple of hours, Adam shows up and takes Gene out to the middle of the field where he has uncovered a valve, only a foot or so below the ground in the middle of nowhere.  Using an adjustable wrench we gently close the valve (which is leaking water around the stem, because it has probably been hit with a plow!), and the water flow drops to a trickle.  At least now we have some measure of control. The only problem is that closing this valve also shuts off the water to the guest house - and we have guests.

We finally uncover the discharge pipe from the septic tank and at the same corner of the tank we find the water line which comes into the house and discover that the water line actually passes through the corner of the tank.  (If anyone reading this can explain how that came to be, we’d be interested in hearing about it.) There is only dry ground around the water line in the direction of its source so the leak must be right there - inside the septic tank.

Now that we have some idea of the problem, the first order of business is to install a shut-off valve to the house so that we can completely stop the flow of water at the leak and be able to open the valve to the Guest House.  However we are lacking a hacksaw.  Gene borrows one from Ron Herr’s next door, but it’s not up to the task.  So he goes looking among the tools that were shipped in a container back in January for Sikalongo Bible Institute, but have not yet been picked up.  Sure enough, there was a hacksaw in the collection and with that we were able to cut the pipe. This is how the Lord provides!

Now that we have water shut off completely to the house and available to the Guest House we are able to move ahead with repairs.  The first order of business is to dig up the water line, assess its overall condition and decide upon replacement.  We also discover that an 18” section of tile drain pipe between the septic tank and the main line is broken and will need to be replaced. We also decide to replace the water line with a plastic line so a trip to town to get pipe and fittings while Bright, our general help employee, continues to dig the trench.  We find everything we need to make the repair except for replacement tile, so that is still an issue.  End of Day 1.

Wednesday we go to work making a connection from the valve we installed to the cut- off stub of the former water line near the house.  We’re not successful in getting the plastic compression fitting to seal on the galvanized pipe.  Still no water in or out of the house. Clean up and go to Bible Study. End of Day 2.


Thursday. After sleeping on it, Gene is reluctant to run a new water line anywhere close to the septic tank. So we look for some other way to connect to the house system and finally discover a 1” tee with a plug in one end in the laundry room off the porch.  This will require a new trench to be dug and a bit of galvanized pipe work for which we will need to hire a plumber.  Fortunately we know of a reliable one from previous experience and he agrees to come out and take a look at it.  Plumber arrives, works up a materials list for us and gives us a quote for the job which I think is way too low.  He accepts my offer of a higher figure! He also suggests that rather than trying to find a pipe to connect the section of drain tile (which is no longer available here), we build a cement box which can serve as an additional clean-out.  Brilliant and more than worth the extra we agreed to pay him. Gene knocks a hole in the laundry wall for the new water line. Back into Choma with a shopping list for parts.  Still no water in or out of the house. End of Day 3.
Friday morning the plumbers arrive and go to work.  The plumbers are good and make great progress but one of the elbows - a cheap Chinese imitation shatters while being installed.  Also, he doesn’t have a 1.5 inch threading die which will be needed to install a solid plug on the open end of the old water line. Back to Choma where we make an exchange of the elbow for the real McCoy which our plumber was able to find at the hardware.  (Interesting that they have both kinds! Now I know where to look next time.  See what learning can come out of these situations?)

But now for the threading device.  We hike around town to five locations with no luck. So the plumber calls another plumber who does have what we need and we drive to his home to pick him up then to his worksite to get the tool and back to Nahumba - one and a half hours.  Two plumbers and Gene are working like bees finishing up the final connections and around 4:00 PM the valve is turned on and everything holds.  We have water in the house, but still can’t use the toilet, bathtub or kitchen sink drains. The plumber finishes constructing the brick and mortar box and we take him and his equipment back to Choma.  End of Day 4.
 

Saturday is a cleanup day and waiting for the cement box to set so we can reconnect the bath tub drain which has to pass right over it. This is the last thing that needs to be done to finish the project.  But then Darlene notices water dripping from the porch roof.  This could only mean a problem with the hot water tank which is in the “attic.”  Gene goes up the crawl space above the office closet and discovers that the shut-off valve is not fully closing.  He drops the water level in the intake box and then opens the valve full flow a couple of times.  That seems to do the trick and it closes properly.  The likely cause? Some debris which may have gotten into the pipe from our earlier work. By the way, we did sanitize the lines with Clorox (Jik here) before the final connection.

Side note: Saturday we were scheduled to bring a group of 8 into our home in order to accommodate another group in the Guest House.  (This due to an inadvertent double booking while we were in Spain.) However, the group due to arrive is not coming until Tuesday, so we didn’t have to bring additional people into our home with a crippled water system.  We are thankful.

Sunday.  Everything seems to be working now. We just need to complete the bathtub drain tomorrow which should be a simple task.  Tomorrow night we bring the 8 guests into our home for the rest of the week.  They will still use the new outhouse and carry out the dishwater because the septic system is not designed to handle that many people. 

Mother used to say, “Aren’t we having fun for poor people?”

 

Sunday, March 6, 2011

Ten Seconds of Majesy

Friday, March 4, 2011

Short Holiday Journal


Tuesday, March 1, 2011
We had pancake breakfast with Steph at 6:30 then on into Choma for her to catch a bus North.  Hung around getting cash from ATM's, filling up with diesel, checking the post office and making a deposit at the bank.
By 8:30 we were on our way South to Livingstone.  The day was mostly cloudy with occasional sprits of rain.  We arrived around 11:00 and drove straight to Maramba Lodge (http://www.maramba-zambia.com) where we checked into our little tent-like cottage.  One more unique habitat to add to our collection of vacation homes.
Needing some lunch we agreed on pizza which we've started to miss.  We found a place in town and ordered a mushroom pizza with other veggies and pineapple. While we waited for the pizza we got a bag of chips (called "crisps" here) which we also haven't had in several months. The "pizza" was unique and quite good but nowhere near the taste we were actually craving. So that longing is still unfulfilled!.
On our  way back to the lodge, intending to just take it easy, we decided to drive out towards the Mosi-o-Tunya game park.  Arriving at the entrance we decided to go ahead and drive through.  Upon entering the gate, something seemed familiar.  Then we realized that this was the take-out point for our canoe trip on the Zambezi in 2008.  As it turned out, we drove up-river the entire 12 km length of the section we paddled in '08 to our put-in place, even identifying the spot where we had lunch.

Lunch Spot During Canoe Trip of '08. Taken Feb 2011

The one huge difference - the water is really up and moving much more rapidly than we remembered it.

Along the way we made several side-trips on dirt roads to explore for more game.  Our trip was well rewarded with excellent close up visits of giraffe, antelope, zebra, wart hogs, monkeys, baboons, and a distant sighting of wildebeest. We also identified 11 new species of birds.  The close-up lens on the camera is good enough to get a decent picture that we can use for identification. In some cases we're able to make 3 or 4 matches on each bird.
Coming back to Maramba, we cleaned up, took a break and then headed over for dinner at 7:30 at dusk.  Darlene had platter of hake and Gene had a chicken breast with rice.  We did order a crocodile appetizer but turned out they had none.  We finished with a fine cup of coffee and a Cadbury caramel bar, all to the tune of frogs and other sundry night calls, some of which were quite unusual. 
We headed back to the tent to wrap up the day identifying the birds we shot pictures of, charged up the Ipod and camera batteries all to the tune of Victoria Falls, a steady roar in the distance.  We're looking forward to seeing it tomorrow.



Wednesday, March 2, 2011
The night was pleasant and cool and we slept until 7:00  and went to the Riverside Restaurant for our complimentary breakfast. Darlene had continental buffet and Gene had the full English which included scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, beans, tomato, toast along with juice and coffee - all while watching a crocodile making its way up stream.
We loaded up our fanny packs with everything we thought we'd need for the day and headed out.  On the way we were stopped at a police checkpoint and they wanted to write Gene up for driving without a license.  They didn't like his provisional license but after a while they left us go.  The check-point was a beautiful view of the smoke over the falls.
It's a wonderful thing to have a Zambian ID card and they like to see westerners with Zambian ID's.  So at the Falls we paid considerably less than in '08.  It was nice not to have to deal with taxis and to be able to drive right up to the main entrance instead of hiking in from the road.  The sound was magnificent as we approached.  Our first glimpse of the Eastern Cataract was blessed by a rainbow in the mist. 
August, 2008

March, 2011


We were impressed by the increase in water from what we saw in '08.  Whole areas above the Falls where we walked that year are underwater. 

August, 2008


March, 2011


Much of the main section of the Falls was hidden by the rapidly moving mists but occasionally we could get a glimpse of  the falls.


August, 2008

March, 2011

We put on our rain jackets and walked across the bridge in a driving downpour of rain. 
August, 2008

March, 2011



The mist is not mist - it's serious rain.  We stayed dry on top but completely soaked from the waist down. We then hiked down to the Boiling Pot, sighting a few baboons along the way.
We were happy to discover that two stream crossings now had new bridges, otherwise we wouldn't have been able to get down given the water levels.
August, 2008

March, 2011


 Again at the Boiling Pot we saw how much the water had risen since '08.  We hung out there close to an hour, mesmerized by the roiling water,  eddies going every which way, whirlpools, holes and  monster waves all in a continually changing pattern.



August, 2008

March, 2011

 The hike back up was its usual strenuous trek and we were glad to get back on top.  We hung around watching  people head  into the rain without much idea of what they were getting into.




Back at Maramba we settled in  on the deck overlooking the river  on lounge chairs with the laptop, book and camera which is where this is being written.  We're listening to the evening birds, Handel's Water Music and the waterfall behind us.  Very relaxing indeed.  Soon be time to clean up and then have dinner again at river's edge.
At dinner we were entertained by two small lizards which hung out under a  lamp that attracted a variety of small insects which provided dinner for them as well.  Gene had a Zambian Bream while Darlene enjoyed a large pork chop.

We had just finished dinner when the phone indicated a text message which was from the US Embassy warning of violence and road-closings at Mazabuka, a mid-sized town between Choma and Lusaka.  They encouraged all US residents to stay indoors and not travel that road. The road has been closed for three days now.

Thursday, March 3
We spent most of the day at the Livingstone Museum which was a fascinating study in the development of Zambian history and culture from a strictly Zambian perspective.  Two displays appropriately titled "Our Village" and "Their Town" presented an intensely thought-provoking rendition of the effects of the uninvited imposition of Western civilization on traditional culture.  While the one was idealized and the other demonized, there is certainly enough truth in both pictures to merit respect, humility and a profound sense of sadness with respect to the treatment of indigenous peoples.  The other dynamic which was not addressed and which we see happening before our eyes, is the transition from "Their Town" to "Our Town" as Zambians themselves lay claim to the methods and the material wealth that was once foreign to them.  These are things we continue to think about.

We decided to take lunch at the Kilimanjaro in Livingstone, a restaurant with an internet cafĂ© which attracts loads of Westerners with their laptops. It almost seemed as if one needed a lap-top to be admitted.  Fortunately we had our Ipod with us so we fit in!



While we were there it rained so hard that the water almost backed up into the inside portion of the restaurant.

On the way home we gave a lift to six people who were walking as a result of their truck breaking down.  We felt a bit strange having them sit without seats in the back of the double-cab vehicle we use, but it was indeed an upgrade from the open truck in which they were riding and they did not have to walk. And they were profoundly grateful. 
We arrived safely back in Choma in late afternoon having really enjoyed this brief break from responsibilities here and ready to go at it again.



Sunday, January 30, 2011

The Journey Continues

January has been a very full month with little time to post another blog.  One thing we have not done is to give you a better "picture" of our setting, so, to start things off, here are a few shots of our home and the guest house:


View From the road, November
 
View from the Road in January


Porch and Front Entrance


Living Room
Kitchen
Bed Room
Guest House

We're very comfortably settled here with such amenities as safe water from the tap (most of the time), hot water (most of the time), electricity (most of the time) and internet connection (most of the time), space radio that gives us BBC and NPR (most of the time).  The microwave, toaster, coffee-maker and electric skillet all need to be rotated from the same electrical outlet.  We have an indoor flush toilet.  These are things taken for granted in Western society but which are lacking for most of the people here in Zambia and the inconvenience of unreliable utilities is minor indeed.  Of course, as campers, we have our back-up systems including a marvelous kerosene cooker which uses 10 wicks to produce an intense blue oxidizing flame which is very efficient and hot enough to do popcorn.



Everything takes a longer time to accomplish and daily plans are consistently interrupted.

Zambia is very wet, very green and pleasantly cool at night and temperate during the day.  However, one neglects to take an umbrella anywhere, anytime at his own risk.

We've been able to visit five different churches so far and we've been blessed by the faithfulness to the Word we've experienced in each and by the warm welcome which we receive exactly the same way in every congregation - "In the name of the Father, Son and Holy Spirit" clap, clap, clap. 

Last week we took a bus trip to Lusaka for Gene to attend a meeting of donor agencies to the BIC church in Zambia.  The movie on the way up was "Fireproof" and it was interesting to be in this setting with Africans to view a movie in which a white man is challenged and ministered to by African-Americans, and who also risks his life to save an African-American child in a fire.  The message about relationships and particularly about a husband's behavior towards his wife was profound in this setting.  Our return trip was not as pleasant as the driver pushed the bus to its limits - probably over 120 k per hour which is terrifying when sharing these narrow roads with large trucks.

Earlier this month Gene went north of Lusaka by truck to retrieve two large boxes (1500 pounds each) of books, tools, computers, clothing and some personal items which we had packed back in April of last year.  We were hoping these supplies would have arrived before we did, but that was not to be.  The biggest challenge was getting them off the truck and into storage here.  We hired 10 men in Choma to help with the task.  We finally got the boxes off but not without a lot of pushing and shoving and even more talking and discussing.  We're quite happy this ordeal is over.


It has been a tradition for many years here in Zambia to publish a monthly newsletter, Intercom, which is sent to a wide range of people in Zambia and the US who have served here or have interest in the life of the BIC church in Zambia. We have picked up the responsibility of continuing publication of the Intercom and our first edition was released just this week.  If you would like to be on this mailing list, just drop us an emai.

We are watching green beans, soybeans, carrots and lettuce grow in our little experimental garden. We haven't committed too much seed to the ground yet until we get a feel for its condition.  It is mostly very sandy and it takes a while to get it built up with some good compost which we're making.  Oh, yes, we have had a few radishes already.

On January 22 we travelled to Macha for the memorial service for Esther Kalambo, who was killed a year ago in an automobile accident.  It was a powerfully moving spiritual experience which was not only a fitting tribute to this remarkable woman, but more importantly, it gave honor and glory to the Lord whom Esther loved and served.  Daughter Mutinta read a touching poem, all Esther's children and their families sang two songs, and son Michelo provided fitting remarks. This was followed by the most sincere and heart-felt tribute by Esther's husband, Mr. Kalambo, who concluded his sharing with an incredibly moving quote from  Proverbs 31:28-30. Son Chilobe preached his heart out with what was essentially a gospel message and Dr. Dorothy Gish gave an excellent tribute, building on what others had shared before her.  The entire service was sensitively led by Overseer M. Munsaka. And it did not rain at the graveside!

Sunday afternoon we took a walk in towards Choma and had a delightful encounter with a church-planting pastor and his wife from a Pentecostal church. They were repairing the ditches in front of their house where we just started talking. After a while they invited us inside and served some freshly-cooked maize and orange drink.  They are working hard at teaching their 5-year-old English which they all speak very well.  We hope to see them at our home next Sunday.


Mweende kabotu (Travel well)
Gene and Darlene Wingert
eugene.wingert@gmail.com