Encampment 8: Livingstone, Zambia

Tuesday, August 26

Victoria Falls

We spent the day in the Victoria Falls area taking a hike above the falls where we could see all the way across to the Zimbabwe side, then along the Knife's Edge, a narrow strip of land almost at the same level as the lip of the falls which extends from the Zambia side right in front of the falls itself.

From this vantage point one can see the expanse of the falls and at this time of year, with not so much water going over, also see all the way to the bottom, something that visitors don't see in the rainy season.

For Tim, this was a treasure trove for shooting pictures and he kept firing away with his camera.

Our next trip took us down to Boiling Pot, a 350 foot descent right down to the water's edge where all the water coming across the falls cascades down a narrow ravine with incredible force. For Gene, a kayak paddler, it looked inviting, but it was quite easy to underestimate the incredible power of the waves moving through this area.

The hike back up was a challenge and we hadn't adequately figured our water requirements. Darlene took her Malaria pill while we were down there and didn't have enough water to go with it... the result being that she had a nasty case of nausea. This, plus the exertion of climbing back up, got the best of her and she needed to stop. Tim and Sara stayed with her while Gene went up to fetch some water but all he could find at the concession stand was soda. Well, at least it was wet and cold so he bought a bottle for everyone and headed back down followed by a troop of baboons. The drink was enough to give Darlene the lift she needed to get to the top where we left the park and found water at one of the shops.

Feeling somewhat refreshed, we walked to the Victoria Falls Bridge to view the Falls from there and to at least put our feet on Zimbabwe soil. As we approached the bridge a young man came along side and started pointing out things and indicating where we should go through the checkpoints. Obviously he was looking to be our "guide" so, without any formal agreement and since to all appearances he was being helpful, we simply allowed him to do his "thing" with us which was most helpful and greatly appreciated.

The view from the bridge was incredible, looking up river at a portion of the Falls, down to the Boiling Pot where we had stood just an hour earlier, and directly underneath – four hundred feet to the river. The experience was marred slightly by a gauntlet of young men hawking their wares. Persistent young fellows.

We made it to the Zimbabwe side, snapped a few pictures and headed back, walking past a constant stream of Zimbabweans headed home loaded with food stuffs from Zambia. Tim negotiated a good price on a the taxi which took us back to Chantors where Dee and I hopped into the pool for a serious cool-down. The day ended with a great dinner graciously served by our hosts and off to bed to get some sleep before our big day tomorrow. Before we retired, however, the waitress took each of our orders for breakfast so it would be ready when we arrived in the morning.

Wednesday, August 27

Chobe Game Park, Botswana

We were up at 5:45am and breakfast was ready for us at 6:30. Our transport arrived around 7:20 and, after picking up a German couple and their son (at a very posh hotel near the Falls), we headed for the border, through a small Zambian game park where we saw a couple giraffe.

Approaching the Zambezi River, on the border with Botswana, we saw scores of trucks lining the road on both sides. We learned that some of these wait for up to a week to get across. There are only two ferrys operating (not very swiftly) and most times one of them is out of service. But the real snarl-up seems to be with paperwork, etc. There didn't seem to be a lot of agitation about the situation and apparently it's accepted as the normal mode of doing business.

We drove between the lines of trucks, and sometimes off to the side, right off the road and arrived at the Zambezi where we were taken across to Bostwana in a small, fast boat. Our guide walked us (literally) through the Botswana immigration office and onto our next transport which took us to Chobe Lodge to freshen up and get our boat for the river part of the trip.

Our boat was out of commission so we waited for about 40 minutes untill another one was rounded up and the tea table appropriately set out. Seated in chairs along the rail with tea cup in hand and a canopy above to shade us from the sun, we headed off on a fabulous cruise of wildlife watching on the Chobe River. Our river guide skillfully brought us within easy watching distance of a variety of bird life and other creatures including hippos, crocodiles, elephants, lots of antelope and cape buffalo. He did a great job of keeping the sun behind us as much as possible to improve viewing and picture taking.

Because of the size and mobility of our craft, we were able to have incredibly close encounters which would not have been possible otherwise. Several herds of elephants crossed the river right in front of us. After several hours we returned to the Lodge for lunch where we were provided with enormous portions of food. Not having had a hamburger for a while, Gene and Sara each ordered one and were amazed at the size. It must have been close to 8oz! Stuffed to the gills, we headed out to our safari vehicle and spent the afternoon driving such sandy roads that we often thought we would become stuck but the driver kept all four wheels engaged in low gear and plowed through the continuous sand trap.

Most of the drive paralled the river where we had cruised earlier but we did see some new bird life, Kudu and Sable antelope which were both spectacular.

Back at Chantors that evening we ordered a very light meal and called it a day.

Thursday, August 28, 2008

Zambezi River Canoe Trip

We learned earlier that, due to the body of President Mwanawasa being viewed in Livingstone today, our morning canoe trip was postponed until afternoon. So we all walked into town to get bus tickets, recharged the phone time and did some souvenier shopping. Once again Sara demonstrated her tough bargaining skills. We had a good time, didn't feel threatened in any way but you never know when someone will suddenly accost you with a plea to buy something, including Zimbabwean Billion Dollar notes

Our driver for the canoe trip arrived at 1:00pm, and we were soon introduced to "Potato" an accomplished paddler, guide and paddlesport instructor who has trained with rafting instructors in the US. When we reached the river, Potato briefed us on procedures, hazards and safety measures. Dangers included the sun, rapids, hippos and crocodiles. Precautions included being properly covered with sunblock, not going broadside in the rapids, keeping our limbs inside the canoe, and watching him for signals to move left or right away from dangerous wildlife.

He pointed out that should a hippo surface beneath us we would probably fly 15 to 20 feet in the air. Sharing the river with hippos in a canoe? He then presented us with a disclaimer form to sign! We did an initial run through some nice Class II rapids then settled down to steady paddling with a gentle current with Tim and Sara in one (inflatable) canoe and Gene and Darlene in the other. Potato would occasionally pound on his kayak to warn and wake up any unaware hippos. Quite reasurring.

It wasn't long before we spotted an enormous crocodile which we allowed to continue to sleep peacefully on shore where he belongs.

We observed several hippos near the banks and gave them wide berth. Potato had no interest in cruising closer to get better pictures and gives evidence of a very healthy respect for these dangerous animals. We also saw monkeys, giraffe and a variety of birds, all of which Potato could identify.

Toward the end of the day, we spotted some hippos with young on the Zimbabwe side. One of them, most likely a cow, loudly expressed her displeasure with our presence, detached herself from the group and made a steady move in our direction to which we responded with a hasty downstream paddle. She continued to follow us for three to four hundred yards. Potato was definitely concerned and didn't tolerate any casualness on our part insisting that we put some good distance between us and her. It's quite a feeling to know that you're being seriously pursued by a 2 ton angry animal with a mouth large enough for an adult to sit upright in and from which your inflatable canoe provides no protection whatsoever. So paddle we did and we were glad to reach our take-out point before long and I'm sure that Mrs. Hippo was also glad that we were off the river and no longer a threat to her young.

As soon as we got back to Chantors Gene took a chilling but wildly refreshing dip in the pool (which I had done each of the previous two nights), showered; then he and Tim went off to an internet café which we had previously identified to check email and update our blog. Tim did some shopping while Gene worked with the laptop and a rather slow connection for DSL. It was dark by the time they were finished and they walked back to Chantors with some apprehension and a lot of caution but without incident.

Following another great meal at Chantors to the sound of frogs in the courtyard, we settled down to the serious business of packing, paying our bill and settling accounts with one another. It's amazing to think that we received a nights lodging, full English breakfast and transportation to the airport and Victoria Falls all for $25 US per person per night, and four dinners only cost us about $50 per person total. All tips and taxes included. This in contrast to what some other lodges at the Falls cost - $200 to $400 per night. We saw some of them up close on our way to Chobe (had lunch in one of them) and they are posh, but don't really have anything that Chantors doesn't have to offer and I can't imagine them being any more personal.

Friday, August 29, 2008

Moving On

We enjoyed our last breakfast at Chantors in the dining room rather than on the deck to the BBC commentaries on Barak Obama's speech of last night. Apparently it was a classic. Good for him. We hope, whatever the outcome of this election, that he can carry himself well and perhaps present a fresh approach to looking at the issues of our times. His own personal background and journey certainly give him a perspective that is not shared by most Americans and, as such, has the potential to provide a much needed corrective to a lot of how we see ourselves in the world.

We all had prayer together and then the taxi arrived to take Dee and I to the bus for a 10:00 departure while Sara and Tim remained at Chantors for their ride to the airport at 11:00. We are truly grateful for these incredible 8 days together which we will always treasure.

At the bus station we were again really harassed by two street vendors but they finally moved on. Mazhandu Bus was again on time but very full and we wondered for a while if we were going to get our bags on. Our bus got us to Choma OK but it was definitely not as nice as the one on which we came to Livingstone. It had smaller seats, not as good suspension and seemed to be a lighter vehicle (except for the passenger load), and no AC. It was considerably rougher on the bad stretches of road but quite bearable. At Choma, Marian arrived about three minutes after we got off the bus. After rescuing us from the mob of taxi drivers we accompanied her to the Sparr and helped her with some shopping which was also quite informative for us, then back to Nahumba, grabbed a bite to eat and off to the General Conference at the Choma Secondary School.

When we arrived, business was in recess while the Executive Board was still working on some nominations while the congregation and various ladies' choirs sang. Then things got down to the business of electing overseers, a short break and we re-convened for Communion. At the beginning of this part of the meeting we were graciously introduced by Bishop Thuma Hamukang'andu, and then, by demand of the congregation, requested to come down front and bring greetings which we both did. It was a deeply moving and emotional time as we made this connection with the Zambian church, a church established in part by Gene's grandparents, Adda (Engle) and Myron Taylor and for which Myron gave his life. For Gene it also brought back many memories and feelings of being in Africa during his childhood.

Following communion we had in-depth conversation with Esther Kalumbo from Macha, a grand-daughter of Jobe who apparently was with Myron at the time of the lion encounter and daughter of a lady who was a childhood friend of Gene's Aunt Anna. With Gene and Esther being third generation offspring, it was a delight to make this connection. We hope to be able to visit her and some others in Macha before we leave here

Saturday, August 30, 2008

On to Sikalongo

After another of Marian's incredible breakfasts, we prepared to leave for Sikalongo. Gene drove into Choma where we did some serious grocery shopping before we leave Choma.

We were grateful that Overseer Hamasele and his wife were riding with us back to Sikalongo. This provided some back-up to make sure we didn't get lost and someone who knew the language and the country in the event something went wrong. (Guides are important whenever one is in unfamiliar territory - including the Journey of life.)

Driving to Sikalongo went OK but was absolutely exhausting for the close to 1.5 hours we were on the road. Gene made all the right moves except one where, on the dirt road back to Sikalongo, he was way to the right to avoid one of the many serious potholes, when another vehicle (the only one on this stretch) approached and he instinctively looked for a place on the right to pull over. Darlene calmly said "Left," and we were back where we needed to be. The dirt stretch seemed to go on forever and Gene took most of it in 2^nd gear because there was no sense getting up speed when you didn't know where the next hole was and we were in no hurry - other than just to have it over with.

We arrived safely, dropped Rev. Hamasele and his wife off at their place and drove to the guest house and began unloading.

When we walked back the hallway of the guest house we discovered that a drip from the toilet valve had overflowed the catch pail, flooded into the bathroom, hallway and bedroom, soaking a large rug and also through one of our suitcases. We hung everything out to dry and Gene mopped the floor with a towel while Darlene put away the groceries.

As we were organizing ourselves the cell phone rang at 4:58 and here it was Tim calling from JFK on his cell phone. They've arrived safely back in the States, BUT the van won't start! We learned later that the battery was down for some reason and they got a jump-start from a parking lot security guard to whom Tim gave 500 Zambian Kwatcha (!) for his troubles.

Later in the evening we enjoyed a wonderful meal prepared by Jane Mweetwa, and met the rest of their family.

It feels great to be setting up "base camp" here for a while. This is not a permanent residence, mind you, but it is a place of abode for a season and particularly after the last two weeks, it feels like settling down. Since July 1 we have slept in 23 different beds and travelled in 27 different means of conveyance. Sikalongo is a welcome refuge for a while.

Thus begins our soujourn at Sikalongo.